BrewManiacEx BrewShield

bmshield

Connections:

  • 1~3, ACT1, ACT2,ACT3
    connect to 5V driven SSR or Relay. for pump, heater, and sparge Heater control. If “Relay Modules” are used, use port “9. ACT Signal“.
  • 4. Buzzer
    5V driven buzzer.
  • 5. Sensor
    DS18B120 sensor. Connect 3V3 to power(vcc) of sensors.
  • 6.Power
    5V power supply. 1.5A+ is recommended.
  • 7. I2C LCD
    I2C bus connection for LCD. The power is +5V.
  • 8. Input
    For keypad or buttons. P0 for Down, P1 for Up, P2 for Enter, and P3 for Start. Pushing the keypad or buttons cause the PIN to GROUNDED.
  • 9. ACT Signal
    The direct control signals of pump, heater, and sparge heater. 3V signal. They control  the same ACT1~ACT3 output and are used to connect to relay modules.
  • 10. WEMOS D1
    The two 8pin headers are for WEMOS D1 mini or pro. Antenna Up, USB down.

bm_sample

Size:

  • 52mm x 52mm

Price:

  • $15.00 USD
  • $5.00 USD shipping within USA.

Note: I wanted to run BrewPiLess on this board also. However, it turns out the rotary encoder doesn’t work smoothly without capacitors. Therefore, I don’t recommend to use it for BrewPiLess.

Please leave the message if you want to buy. I will send you PayPal invoice.

Schematics

 

83 thoughts on “BrewManiacEx BrewShield

  1. Is it possible to send to Czech Republic?
    Would you be so kind to let me know about shipping to Czech Republic.

  2. I would like to buy one. Please send a paypal invoice, shipping to Ohio.
    Question: can I add a second pump and make the proper adjustments in the program?
    Thank you!.

  3. I want to buy one. Please send me a paypal invoice, shipping with tracking to Czech Republic.

    Thank you very much.

  4. What are you going to do with the second pump? Controlling the pump is simple by adding a line of code to control an IO pin. But it is more complicated to design the user interface. It usually starts from use cases…

  5. Ahoj Pavle nebylo by lepší nechat si desky podobné udělat někde u nás podle dat na výrobu? Určitě by se nás pár našlo. Dát 1300 za pár odporů a tři tyristory je mazec.
    Sorry for languange, just asking fellow czech.

  6. Coil placed in the HLT for mashing (HERMS), I was going to recirculate the water in the HLT to increase the heat transfer coef around the coil and also to maintain the water temperature uniform in the HLT.
    The other option I’m looking into is to use a counterflow chiller with a convoluted internal tube as a heat exchanger for mashing, meaning that I need to run two pumps, one for wort, one for hot water.
    Anyway, I do not plan on using your design as-is, don’t get me wrong, it is awesome, but I like to play with things so I will take your controller as baseline and adapt it for my needs and just for fun. I just finished my classic PID controller based on the instructions from http://www.theelectricbrewery.com but it looks like I can’t stop here. I really like your work.

  7. Hello Vito, with interest pursue your project.
    I think it’s class. Unfortunately, I can not program myself, but am familiar with electronics and soldering iron.
    According to my idea for the house brewery, the thermometer as a WiFi sensor is supposed to supply the data. The control as AP or Web server access the data and control WiFi sockets, no thick cables.
    Would like to order 3 plates with delivery as “GIFT” to Germany for me and friends
    thank you
    Vit

  8. The shipping seems to be the same for all europe according to usps.com. Allow me to confirm later. I will happy to sell you my boards, but the project is designed to be used in a Pump recirculated E-BIAB system. If what you want is wireless temperature reading, all you need are a Esp8266 board, a 4.7K resistors, and a DS18B20 sensor.

  9. The panel build is cool.
    I’ve thought of 3-vessel system, but I found bigger display is needed, and I don’t have experience about 3-vessel system.
    As I have said, the system should be designed from use-cases, and the UI part is the hardest part in brew system.
    How hard could it be to turn on/off switches, counting time, and beep by program?
    User Experience is the most important part in design of a system, IMO.

  10. Hy Vito in your brewshield are no there connections for the pump and power?

  11. Hy Vito inyour brewshield, You can develop the ability to store recipes?

  12. Hy Vito in your brewshield are no there connections for the pump and power led?

  13. I am thinking about recipes, but I don’t want to do the simple “recipes” as Open Ardbir does.
    Real recipes including grain bill and hop names are what I want to do.
    I haven’t decided the detail, but the next major release should include a feature of importing recipes in BeerXML format.
    What I haven’t figure out is how to display the recipe on the tiny display and editing full recipe seems impossible.

  14. I think it is not relevant that the information of the recipes are seen on the small screen. That’s why you can see http://www.brew-boss.com they only work with a small screen because the main interface work through an APP for Android.

  15. I checked the BrewBoss and found that the tablet is necessary in the system. It is the “brain” of the system. On the other hand, wireless function of BrewManiacEx is optional, although wireless function is the reason I created it. I want wireless function for monitoring remotely and HELP in the process.
    It’s interesting that I have surveyed the touch screen and found that an Android Tablet costs less than a touch screen. If I am going to build a 3-vessel or more complicated system, I would definitely use a tablet like BrewBoss. That should be a cheap way to get a touch screen controller which has more-than-needed computing power and programming friendly environment. It’s a shame that I don’t like Android and never wrote any Android APP except a “Hello World” on ADP1. This a very doable and might be easier project(without fancy UI).

  16. Congratulations friend, I know that you will create an excellent system !!

  17. Hi!

    I would like to buy one pcb.
    Please send me a paypal invoice 🙂

    Nice work!!!!!!

  18. Hi to recipes to be read on tiny display. It could work if made like SETUP folder. You choose what part you want to edit and get to that part of recipe. That is my idea how it could be done 🙂

  19. Hi Vito, after a little help here.

    Just uploaded the software to D1 and connected to it. I entered my wifi network details and instead of showing up at bm on on iphone it popped up on my local network just fine. Connecting to it via web using bm.local then came up with a page asking to update 19 files (mainly images) which I did and now it displays the main screen. However it says at the bottom

    “The connection to BrewManiac is down. It might be wireless issue or ESP8266 issue. Check your Brew ASAP.”

    Also higher up it says:

    “New passwords don’t match!!
    User Name
    Password
    Save
    New setting will be effective after restart.
    Update failed!!”

    I have not tried to change these settings. The D1 is seen on the network and displays the page so it is working on the local network fine. I have tried to change a setting and click on set and save and it doesn’t seem to do anything even after a restart. I am using Chrome as a browser. I do not as yet have the D1 connected to anything as waiting on the shield to arrive but I assume that I should be able to change settings and something is not quite right?

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks

  20. Hi Iain,
    The FILES are corrupted. Don’t worry. It’s the files that was downloaded to your browser. Please hit RELOAD button of Chrome to reload the page, or clear the cache.
    Sometimes, it happens on mine, too. I suspect that it is caused by the the ESPAsynctcp or ESPAsyncWebServer library, which handle the transfer of the file from SPIFFS, the file system.
    I will update the libraries to new versions to see if this issue can be solved. Before that, please just reload the page until it is “normal”. Sorry about that.

  21. Thanks, still struggling though, I had all your libraries installed and have blanked and rewritten it. I don’t get the menu working at the top left either. I’ll try the newer libraries and see what happens.

  22. Hi, do you still have any boards left? I would like one sent to Australia please, how much will this cost?

  23. You can connect to whatever you want if you know what you are doing.

    what is stirrer? what are you going to do?

  24. Thanks for the quote. How many boards do you have left? I am actually not looking to purchase immediately as my new brewing pots are not yet plumbed and it may be quite some time before I have everything ready to start experimenting with the controller.

  25. It is the same circuit, except that
    1. this shield uses SMD components.
    2. the reference circuit remove unnecessary parts for BrewManiacEx.

  26. I didn’t see attachment with actual schemat in Your post – answer about me own PCB is actual:)

  27. Ok, thank You very much:)
    I have one more question – Do You use 2N2222 and BSS138 ranzistors?
    Best Regards

  28. Hello Vito, do you have any boards left ? i would like to have some shipped to Norway if possible ?

    Best Regards

  29. Hello, I am very interested in this shield, can you please quote for shipping to Australia. Kind regards Luke

  30. Thanks Vito, can you send a PayPal invoice please? If I wanted to run 2 pumps would the ACT signal pins allow me to add 2 relays to run the pumps in addition to the 3 existing control signals (ACT1,2,3)?

  31. The ACT 1,2,3 is transistor controlled output while the signal pins are directly from ESP8266.
    They are of the same signal.

    May I ask why you wants to use Two pump? BrewManiacEx doesn’t support TWO pumps. You will need to program by your self to support two pumps.
    If you want to use this shield, ACT3 is an option, which is currently used to control sparge water heating.
    I have thought about using ACT to control mixer/stirrer motor in the future, too.

  32. Hi Vito,

    Looking at adapting for a 3 vessel system, while I haven’t programmed with arduino before I have used many other languages and would intend to modify the code to support 3 vessels.

    I would envision using ACT1 for HLT, ACT2 for RIMS and ACT3 for Boil kettle (all SSR’s controlling elements) and then use a relay module with 2 or more relays to switch pumps on and off for transfer and recirculating purposes.

    Luke

  33. Hi Luke,

    I had thought about 3 vessel system, but I didn’t have much experience about AUTOMATIC 3 vessels.
    BrewManiacEx is designed for E-BIAB, and the board is designed to used in single kettle E-BIAB.
    I won’t say it’s impossible to make it support 3-kettle, but I would suggest something more powerful like craftbeerPi.
    Raspberry Pi is far more powerful and so that it provide more flexibility. Running PID to control heating or turning pump on/off is not a big deal.
    ESP8266 sure can handle that well. However, a full fledged web server running on RPI would make life easier to support versatile user interface.

    Vito

  34. Hi Vito,

    I’m looking for two shields shipped to the UK, do you have any left ?

    Andy.

  35. Vito, Does the power input have to be 5v only or can it cope with a higher range of voltages ?

  36. Vito, If I want two LEDs to indicate the state of the heat / pump controls how would you suggest I wire them up ? I’ll be using SSRs to control the heating and pumps and if I use ACT 1-2 for the SSRs then could I wire up the LEDs to ACT 9 (with suitable resistor) ?

  37. Allow me to remind you that zero-crossing SSR won’t work for DC pump.(I am not aware of any existence of DC heater.)

    It depends on the purpose of LED. You have three choices:
    1. ACTDIR
    The output connect directly to the PINs of ESP8266. I’ve tried connecting those PINs to LEDs when testing the boards.
    It will be used just as indicator, the same as the symbol on the LCD.
    If the LED doesn’t agree with the symbol on LCD, one or some of these might goes wrong: software, D1 mini, the board, or the LED.

    2. output of SSR, in series
    You have to use 240/220V LED. ( I am not sure how it can be connected.)
    If the LED doesn’t agree with the symbol on LCD, the heating element or pump has something to do with it.

    3. output of SSR, in parallel
    You have to use 240/220V LED.
    If the LED doesn’t agree with the symbol on LCD, SSR is the culprit.

  38. Hmmm, not sure I understood much of that 🙂

    Zero crossing DC pump ?

    To clarify:

    I’m replacing the Braumeister controller with BrewManiacESP. So the pumps are mains voltage AC, as are the heating elements. I will be using SSRs for both the pumps and the heating elements.

    My assumption is that I can connect the SSRs to ACT1 and ACT2 to switch the pump/heater respectively. Is that correct ?

    Can’t I connect LEDs in parallel with the ACT1 / ACT2 control outputs to indicate when pump / heater is on ?

  39. Forget about the zero-crossing and DC issue, since you are using AC pump.

    Is this what you want to do?
    ACT(+) —-+—— SSR input +
    LED
    ACT(-) —-+—— SSR input –

    It should work with a resistor in series.

  40. Yes, that’s it. Put a LED (+resistor) across the ACT +/- terminals which are being used to switch the SSRs. I’ll give it a go.

  41. Hi, I am very interested in your project because it is not very expensive and then it is very similar to the system I use, a slip is not in Italian, but on this there is no problem, I was wondering, you send your cards in italy?

  42. Good morning Vito,
    I can not use it in gas mode? Only with electrical resistance?
    In pure Ardbir I had the possibility to choose between gas and resistance.

  43. Yes. Only electrical heating is supported, because I don’t really understand how to control heating by gas.

  44. Got it! But did not Ardbir already have a gas-ready schedule? There is no way to include your firmware?

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